Thursday, October 30, 2003

We all went to David Kelloggs funeral Yesterday.
Adam and Meg are both still hurting.
It's funny....I was cool, I was fine until Dave's family walked into the church and the cold harsh reality of the fact that he was never going to come home to his family ever again hit me like a freight train. I managed to bottle up the tears but one or two slipped past.
The hardest part was meeting friends and family for both Dave and Kelly.
They kept thanking us for what we did.
But we didn't do jack. We weren't strong enough, skilled enough or fast enough to do anything that mattered.
Their sons/lovers/friends were never coming home. What the hell are they thanking us for? Why don't they hate us?
And then finally I see it......Kelly's girlfriend meets me ....I have trouble meeting her eyes.
It's unnerving what I read there.
She sneaks sidelong glances at me.
Her eyes ask me "why are you here and not Kelly, why didn't you save him?"
I will never forget the image of a man falling out of the skies and I will never forget that look of sorrow, pain and hate in someone's eyes.
I want to apologize for not doing enough but I know it won't mean a thing.
It won't mean anything the same as everything we tried to do that day doesn't mean anything.
No one was saved, no one was comforted and none of it means anything right now.

Tuesday, October 28, 2003

Hi All,

Just wanted to send an invite to those who are interested in climbing in Owens River Gorge Nov 7 - 9th. I plan on leaving mid afternoon on Friday (if I can get away from work) and return LATE Suunday night or mid day on Monday. I am driving the white whale so there is room for passengers (3 more)! Just let me know!
So this seems to be the "official" word on the new J-tree campin' fees.

Monday, October 27, 2003

"On the mountains of truth you can never climb in vain: either you will reach a point higher up today, or you will be training your powers so that you will be able to climb higher tomorrow." -Friedrich Nietzsche
News from the firezone
Meg was unable to get into the area where her house is/was.
currently the Police are turning everyone back
So I just gave Meg a call... the status of the house is unknown. Her roommate managed to get a police escort into the nieghborhood yesterday and get out the cat and both computers. There were flames in the neighborhood, dangerously close to the house, but they are not sure yet if it actually burned. She's on her way home right now and if she can manage to get another escort in she's going to try and rescue some clothes and her roommates car. I told her to give a ring later and let us know what's up.
Freaking great.
Meg got a call sunday from her roomate in San Diego......their house burned down.

Friday, October 24, 2003

Basically we did the first pitch of Human Fright (skipping the first 2 pitches of Angels fright) then scrambled up some ledges to a better belay so we could switch over to AF so we were already 1/2 way up on the 3rd pitch heading to the roof section and lunch ledge. I decided to string the remainder of pitch 3 and pitch 4 together.
I was 30 feet above the belay for the second pitch of Human Fright (where the rap slings are) on the 4th pitch of Angels fright when we heard rockfall. It was really loud like thunder.
I looked up and Meg looked right and left. No rocks........then she said "I see people falling" I looked over just in time to see what I thought was a jacket falling. It was falling too fast to be a jacket though.
Meg asked me to get a piece in and clip it (I thought she was going to faint so did so immediately) Meg watched them fall all the way and noted approx where they landed (she lost sight of them in bushes/trees). We started calling out to them asking if they were all right,
we didn't expect anyone to answer back but were hoping somehow they survived I guess. There was a soloist in the area who started yelling call 911 and blowing SOS on his safety whistle. So we started yelling for 911 hoping someone up top or at the parking lot would hear us.
Meg spotted someone running up from lunch rock so she started giving them directions to where they were and I started down climbing back to the rap slings on the 2nd pitch of HF. Once I got to the slings I asked her how she felt about rapping off them, she wasn't comfortable with it so I downclimbed to her position.
Adam (the guy at lunch rock had reached the climbers and started yelling call 911 we need a chopper, Adam kept calling for help so we kept yelling "we're rapping off we're moving as fast as
we can". We agreed to triple check everything we did down to re-examining our tie in knots and our buckles. I belayed Meg back down to the rap station at HF (bolts) then downclimbed to her. We rapped off (at this point I was on autopilot and automatically dropped my rack and pulled my rope wasting valuable time which I now regret) changed our shoes (mistake-losing more time) I kept my camelbak on because Meg asked me to bring water and we ran down to get the stokes litter.
While I untied the litter Meg rummaged thru a pack at lunch rock looking for a first aid kit. We started to carried the litter over when a Helicopter buzzed by above us Meg tried to flag them down with her shirt while they flew back and forth but they flew away.
We arrived with the litter to find someone at the base of the area where the climbers fell (Jeremiah). He informed us that Adam was with one man and couldn't
find the other. We asked Adam the condition of the man he was with, he had a faint pulse. We asked if the rope ran below or above where he was and he said "below". He also told us to be careful there was a lot of loose rock all around where he was.
Jeremiah and I decided to scramble up to Adam who was asking us to hurry. We looked at the section of rock in front of us (easy fifth class) and decided I should go first as I had my 5.10 Mountain Guides approach shoes on.
Jeremiah asked me how good my shoes were and I said "they're good these are technical". He gave me a bottle of water (plus I had my camelbak on) so we could hydrate the victims and I
started climbing. A thin dirt filled crack and a polished slab covered the first 15-20 feet to a wider crack with an area you can stand in and then it's fourth class.
I warned Jeremiah that the first section was really polished so he decided to back off rather than risk injuring himself (wise choice). I got up to a ledge about 50 feet from the ground (I know this because we later used a bi-color rope and the halfway mark was at the ledge) and below Adam's location. I again asked Adam where the rope went and he again answered "below me, be careful there's a lot of loose stuff up here".
At this point other people had begun to arrive Helene (Adams girlfriend) and Tom the soloist. Tom had downclimbed above and to the right of Adam. Helene said she'd called 911. I spotted the rope which led to a another ledge below Adam and about 10-15 feet above me. The only way to get there was a thin crack which appeared 5.6-5.7ish.
Adam asked me to hurry as he'd lost the pulse. Helene asked him if he knew CPR and Adam answered no.
Helene asked Adam to perform CPR anyway and Adam responded that he couldn't (we found out later that the victim had been coughing up blood from internal injuries and wasn't positioned very well ie; he could slip off anytime and fall).Someone asked me if I could get to the 2nd
climber and I replied that I needed my rack and a rope. I told them I need to be really calm and focused when I solo harder than 5.6 and while I was in control I was not in the right frame of mind to solo. Jeremiah asked if I could climb higher and traverse across.
I asked Tom if I could get to the other victim from higher up and he said no. I asked for someone to get my rack and Meg took off, I assumed she was going to get my rack but she was going back to search in the pack at lunch rock for a first aid kit. While we waited I asked Adam how he was doing and he said he was okay but that the victim was dead.
Meg came back with a first aid kit but no rack. Two other climbers showed up (Ryan and Brent) and we asked them for a rack. I explained again how I wasn't in the right
frame of mind to solo. Ryan agreed to climb part of the way up and pass me a space blanket to cover the 2nd victim. I down climbed the fourth class section and got the blanket. I again asked for a rack. Ryan agreed to lead up to where I was and then lead up to the 2nd victim. I climbed back to the ledge and Ryan led up to me. I offered to lead up to the 2nd victim if he didn't want to but he declined (Ryan knew CPR and I didn't). Ryan climbed up to the 2nd man (based on the way he climbed I would guess the section was 5.5-5.6 if Ryan was a 5.8-5.9 leader and 5.7-5.9 if Ryan was a 5.10 leader). Ryan reached the 2nd man and said he was cold and without a pulse. Ryan climbed up to Adam and waited with him. I down climbed back to the ground and waited with everyone else.
A 2nd Helicopter flew by and Hovered but didn't land. We finally all agreed to walk down to the base and meet the SAR guys and Sheriff down there as it was getting close to dark.
I wasn't paying attention to what everybody was doing all the time and
couldn't see everyone. Some stuff is left out and I'm sure I've forgotten things or have them slightly wrong. the sequence of events may not be totally right either.

Wednesday, October 22, 2003

I told Catie that is was 105F out here yesterday and she wrote this back: "yuck......what's the forecast for JTree? Hot with a 99% chance or really hot???? we are going to melt..... it burns us!!!"

Monday, October 20, 2003

excerpt of an email from El Jefe Loco (tim) He'll be in town for a week around New Years

I have locked myself in my office and playing MIA in clinic. I went climbing this
weekend. Up to about 80% of my best right now which is not too bad. I have learned
to appreciate the fact that we learned and tested our mettle in Josh where the
climbs will hurt you if do not know what you are doing. The ratings are stiff and
the rock makes you strong. Climbing up here is soft man.

I need a recliner in my office. I want to take a nap. I also need to go to the
bathroom but if I go outside someone might see me and tell me to help out in the
clinic? What to do? Should I perferate my bladder or deal with the pain of clinic?

Sometimes climbing sucks.

I can't and won't stop though.

But sometimes being a climber really sucks.

Friday, October 17, 2003

Dave is BORED!!!

Thursday, October 16, 2003

Here is the original.

Wednesday, October 15, 2003

This Pic is pretty badass.
Hello yeah, J-tree this weekend...who's up for some climbing? I'm thinking of heading up fri afternoon(but plans can change, i'm flexible) to get a few climbs in and climb on sat. Got to be back in town sunday. gots a freeking test monday that I have to study for.

Tuesday, October 14, 2003


14 October 2003
1 Posts

Quote: Originally posted by Steve on 14 October 2003
do you really think this is the place to talk about religion?

God is a Yellow Alien.

hmmmmm.... I wonder who "CLIMBER" is???......Art do you have any clue???

Thursday, October 09, 2003

So here is the deal now, I fly home on the 19th and start rehersals for A Perfect Circle on the 20th for five days I think then have 2 days off before I fly out again to start in San Antonio. Scince I wont have time in between tours I'm flying my girfriend to Vegas. That's why RR is out. I was planning on flying to Chiago to see her in between tours but that's not gonna happen and this next tour dosen't go to Chiago so I won't see her untill mid December.

So I may not be able to climb untill the end of the next tour which is in mid December. Thhis sucks, I just bought 12 new wiregates on the net and are sitting at home in a box never used. Well J-tree gathering here I come.

Let the flames begin about the girl friend
Rock View topic - Spider bite

THIS IS NASTY, check out tenn_dawg's pics.
Yep, talked to him too.....ANY ONE UP FOR JTREE!!!!(like I have to ask!)

Wednesday, October 08, 2003

Just talked to Zac, Red Rocks is off for October. He'll also be home during that following week, flying in on Sunday the 19th. Damn, I guess we'll just have to go climb in crappy ol' Joshua Tree instead!
This is for Catie

Tuesday, October 07, 2003

AND THIS IS FOR ART....don't want to leave him out of the loop.
So You've Decided to be Evil
THIS IS FOR KIRK, since he likes making lists. The Universal Packing List
SO ZAC!!!!!! RR gonna happen?!!!!!

Monday, October 06, 2003

Oh and Kirk learned a few things this weekend.......
1) The opening moves of an 11b on toprope can be harder than the crux of a 10b on lead
2) If you're going to do Overhang bypass it's best not to start on the wrong route.
Well as soon as we got to Hall of Horrors and said Hi to everyone Adam and Matt tried to get me on Garden Angel......well I've onsited that route and didn't like it anyway. I looked at them and said I'm gonna get on Cactus Flower. Reardon jumps up and in his Mike R kind of excitable babbling way tells me "Hey I was just gonna go do that .....allright! You're all mine..........let's go.........I'll belay you........take a couple of aliens.........have you done the route before....if you're gonna make animal noises when you climb that'd be cool! c'mon start racking up......blah blah blah......
So anyway I hung getting thru the first crux messed up the hand sequence on the 2nd crux but got the third crux clean but the slabby sequence on the fourth crux shut me down completely this time........Mike had to finish the route for me and it took him a LONG time to figure the sequence out.
Well I'm 1-3 on that route for lead......I will be back......and I will get another redpoint.

Friday, October 03, 2003


I just had to share this email exchange with our friends........

Dave wrote:
Did she just call me fat?!? Damn baby, that's cold! hahahaha

Catie wrote:
Baby cakes I never implied you were fat, just that you hang. no hard feelings. :)

Art wrote:
Hey dave how're they Hanging?
to the left or is it to the right?

Catie wrote:
I meant when he climbs!!! stop I am laughing out loud at work!!!

Thursday, October 02, 2003

So why is it called American Football when only one guy is allowed to kick the ball, he's not even allowed on the field most of the time, and he usually isn't even an American? It seems to me that something like "handball," if it weren't already taken, or "Running Ball" would be more appropriate. And why the hell did we take the name "Football" from a more appropriate sport and name it Soccer instead? What the hell is a SOCCER? Eh well, I guess I can always turn to SlamBall! Whoever thought to put B rate atheletes on a basketball court with trampolines is a genius!

It's a freakin' trampoline!
For your reading pleasure
nobody likes enigma/enema(Randee Rubman)
The good news.......Jake Plummer is doing great with the Broncos and we're 4-0.
The Bad news.........Sports Illustrated put Plummer on the cover, right before we play Kansas City.
Noooo........not the JINX!

Wednesday, October 01, 2003

Just to give you some daily entertainment... some poo has hit the fan over at the ODC. You can read it here. Read the posts by "Webmaster," Rob Brown, and John N.