Wednesday, March 31, 2004

So, Art.

How was climbing this weekend?.....anything interesting happen?

Friday, March 26, 2004

No worries, at least I don't feel quite as foolish 10c, that's a fairly tough move to pull. Now that I know the sequence AND if I am fresh, I think I might be able to do that move...the question is, what comes after that? More 10c climbing?

Thursday, March 25, 2004

Kirk, I'm sorry. I honestly thought it was 10a.

Difficulty: 5.10c
Protection: 2 bolts pro to 2.5 finish 2nd pitch on Geronimo or Rap from the station at Geronimo
Description: thin and crimpy mantle move past bolt
Updated By: artm
Updated On: Mar 4 2002
Climbed By: |artm|jorgle|add new|
Now Dave do you really think HE needs a rope?....or do YOU? hi i'm Daves rope
Edelweiss Axis 10.3mm x 60M Dry Rope

someone (fuego) needs to teach Kirk how to post links
are you getting one of these Kirk?

Price: $114.95

In stock!

Please Select a Color: Blue
Orange w/Red and Silver


Edelweiss Axis 10.3mm x 60M Dry Rope
Edelweiss has a new rope for 2004! Offering the performance and durability that you have come to expect from Edelweiss without emptying your pocketbook, the Axis is sure to be another bestseller! This rope features the Edelweiss Everdry treatment which means it will absorb less water in wet conditions, making it lighter to pack out and quicker to dry. The Axis offers excellent performance, good looks, and Edelweiss construction.

Diameter: 10.3mm
Length: 60M
Falls: 10
Elongation: 6.4%
Impact Force: 8.5kN
Weight: 71 gr/M
Dry Treated
UIAA Certified
Color: Blue w/Silver or Orange w/Red and Silver

Tuesday, March 23, 2004

Having decided the night before that Chrimson Chrysalis was a bad idea we entertained thoughts of Sour Mash 10a, our only concern was that Kristin had hurt her shoulder toproping an 11A that I'd led when we'd been in Bishop so we went to our back up plan.....Frogland.
On the drive out to Black Velvet canyon we passed up the actual turnoff into the dirt road and took the wrong I'm sitting in the back seat going "this looks wrong" and Demian (Kmac's roomate) is giving directions based on reading the guide book (but not looking at the directions) from memory. Kmac finally takes the guide book from Joe and figures out we've gone too far. We arrive at the parking for Black Velvet in spite of the fact that Demian (nice friendly guy) is still trying to give directions based on memory. For those of you who've never been there before look for an area where a large number of cars can park near the turnoff of the dirt road just past the cattle guard, keep driving down the road until you get to a metal gate. The guide book says to turn left on the 3rd dirt road this is WRONG as several new roads have been cut. There is now a sign at the gate (we'll see how long it lasts) with an arrow that says Black Velvet Canyon turn left here. Now that we're getting ready to start hiking I chug half a liter of water and we set off. The trail is wide and well traveled with a slight grade. Eventually we have to leave the main BVC trail and head up a steep hillside to Frogland Buttress/Whiskey peak. This quickly turns into switchbacks reminscent of Tahquitz..........except Tahquitz has shade and trees. This is the desert baby.........the heat gets to me and I throw up the 1/2 liter of water I'd chugged earlier (good thing I'd decided we were doing Frogland instead of Sour Mash that morning, Joe and Demian had gone to do the first 3 pitches of Triasic Sands and then TR Wholesome Fullback) ). We get to the base and rack up.....we're off and running up the big white flake that marks the start of Frogland and up the dihedral I go....we eventually catch up to the party in front of us who informs me that the party in front of them were moving really slow and had even bailed off the route the day before. They'd allowed one fast party to pass but were refusing to let anyone else by. I brought Kmac up and we kicked it on the big ledge......we decided that since eventually the climbing got easier they'd move faster. Which they did but not by much. We topped off with the last of the light and started the the fading light we messed up and after making up our own special variation we ended up in the gulley used to approach Black Velvet. Kristin went up to look for the packs and gave me the keys to take to Demian and Joe since at that point having led every single pitch I was pretty much physically useless to her. The hike out in thin climbing shoes was exruciatingly painful and slow.
The next morning Demian and I went back and got the stuff we left........the hike in and out is easy when you're basically not carrying jack shit.
It was still a fun epic and Kmac is tough as nails.

Monday, March 22, 2004

Re: The Red Rock Rendezvous!!!


POLL: Whose epic was the most unfortunate?

And the nominees are:

1) Kristin and Art for Frogland: After getting stuck behind a 2.5-hour-per-pitch party that wouldn't allow passing, Kristin and Art topped out in the dark and couldn't find their packs at the base, which contained Art's car keys. Luckily, they drove Kristin's car, and she had her keys on her. They did, however, have to hike out of Black Velvet canyon in climbing shoes. They returned the next morning and located their packs... and approach shoes.

I'm waiting for a trip report ART....
Jorge and Christine “hanging” out

Thursday, March 18, 2004

Hola, I am Fuego McDrink

Christine, where are you?

Sweet relief!

Wednesday, March 17, 2004

Rockfall (singular) in Yosemite

Christine just gave me a call today. One of her schoolmates was hiking near the upper falls when a "melon sized" rock came whizzing hit one of the guys in the leg. He had to get a bunch of stitches.

She is fine, she was climbing with others at the time.

Tuesday, March 16, 2004

Again Jorge, I say thankyou for the photoshop!

Honestly ocifer, i'm serfectly Pober

Monday, March 15, 2004

Sunday night as I'm driving home from having a couple of beers with some friends I get pulled over by the CHP on Pch. I was thinking about this rather odd conversation I'd just had with a girl about a beauty salon she was thinking about buying that ended with her demanding that I take a vacation somewhere in europe, preferably England or Ireland. Anyway my mind was wandering and I apparently was driving 50 in a 40 mph zone without realizing it.
When the police pulled me over I was polite and non-confrontational about how fast I was going.
I told the officer I wasn't really paying attention to my speed and apologized. At which point he must have smelt the beer on my breath because he asked me if I'd been drinking.....I admitted to having finished my 2nd beer about 10 minutes ago and my first one about a half hour before that.
He asked me to take a roadside and I offered to just do the breathalyzer since we both knew I'd had a few and he agreed. I blew a .02 and the officer handed me my license and registration back and let me go with a warning about not driving too fast and keeping my mind on the road.
Cool guy he could have been a total jerk and he could have written me a ticket but he didn't.

Tuesday, March 09, 2004

Zac called me yesterday looking for a midweek belay. He's done with the tour and back in town. I think he's a little bummed that I'm working now.

On a side note, any of you gonna go to RR with Park? I told her I would if it was the April dates. Want to take Catie up something kewl. -Dave

Friday, March 05, 2004

Tim (neph) tells me that Telemundo is going to do a feature on the ODC.
So last night at the Harp Inn in Costa Misery I listened to Maria Butterly sing.
A wee Irish lass with an incredible voice.
She'll be performing there again next Thursday I believe, check it out.

Wednesday, March 03, 2004


When you mean "for example," use e.g. It is an abbreviation for the Latin phrase exempli gratia. When you mean "that is," use "i.e." It is an abbreviation for the Latin phrase id est. Either can be used to clarify a preceding statement, the first by example, the second by restating the idea more clearly or expanding upon it. Because these uses are so similar, the two abbreviations are easily confused. If you just stick with good old English "for example" and "that is" you won't give anyone a chance to sneer at you. If you insist on using the abbreviation, perhaps "example given" will remind you to use "e.g.," while "in effect" suggests "I.E."

Tuesday, March 02, 2004

I've got my REI dividend....$36.97, what to get......what to get.
So I open my yahoo mail to find this

[To all my friends and climbing partners,
Over the past few years I have compiled a list of friends with whom I have enjoyed climbing. Sadly, James Wasser, the person I climbed with two weeks ago decided to solicit my partners without my knowledge. I will not climb with James again for a number of reasons, and do not recomend him as a climbing partner.
I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. ]
What a tool Wasser is.......this is that epicsaga guy and the freak who gordo just told me got into a flame war with K Murray.