Tuesday, November 30, 2004

So I guess it's time for a new helmet. I've got a few in mind...What is your opinion??

Adjustable helmet for climbing & mountaineering The Ecrin Roc is fitted with 2 adjustment wheels for a perfect fit. Supplied with 2 foam headbands (choose thick or thin foam according to size). Thanks to the numerous holes in the shell, it offers perfect ventilation. The chinstrap is also easily adjustable thanks to the ingenious patented buckle. A headlamp can be easily mounted because of the four clips fitted to the shell. Meets ANSI Z89.1 as well as other American and European industrial standards, including EN 12492.


HB Dyneema Helmet Astonishingly light yet providing remarkable protection, the Dyneema helmet is a step forward. Combining the remarkable penetration resistance of Dyneema with the stiffness of carbon fiber, HB has created a helmet which withstands 10 repetitions of the CE penetration test. The standard is 1! weight: 12.3 oz size: One size / Color: Carbon

or....any suggestions?

oh and don't say the "new" halfdome...I think those suck (quality wise).

NOTE: UIAA approvals don't mean jack. It's all about CE.
Hey all,

I've got a 15% coupon code for REI, you can use it online. The code is RNCHCG. It's good for like a week starting yesterday.


Tuesday, November 23, 2004

So you all want to hear about my date right... Well as of now it's 2am and I'm 2 hours jet lagged. so don't mind the bitter undertones.

8pm I end up at her house and just as I thought, she was not ready, just like a woman. Well she invites me inside and I sit down on the couch and there's a pipe sitting next to me. At this point I'm hoping she has a roomate. No Dice. Well not much to do but to make the best of the night, I'm stuck. We went to dinner and I planned to go to a cool Bar after. She asked if I could swing her by an ATM. I told her she did'nt need money, and she replied "I need you to swing me by someone's house so I can score an 1/8 of weed." So what could I say, there I was drining around Long Beach trying to find a house so she could get some pot. We get there and I wait in the car and call Jorge. After that I figure I can get to a bar and talk to other people. Not so much. She wants to go back to her house and "hang out". Well it was more like we watched T.V. and she smoked out of a bong. Oh ya we talked too. Now I know what stoners do on dates, and now I know I don't ever wnat to be a stoner.

Other than the drug thing She was kick ass, but I just can't deal with that.

Oh well $hit happens there's always climbing to keep my mind, who needs women... right Art. F them

Monday, November 22, 2004


sunday morning I woke up to see about 8 to 12 inches of snow on the ground.

Friday, November 12, 2004

so I have a campsite in Indian Cove over the New Years weekend.
Dec 30-Jan 2.
Family Site not group site so don't go posting up on rc.com or the ODC.

Wednesday, November 10, 2004

Ludicrous Light... I am your FATHER!
Next time you're in REI go over to the headlamps and click this thing on.
Sorry, but I have to techno-geek it for a moment. Tonight we had a Black Diamond clinic, Linh was giving it coincidentally. So anyway I finally got around to fondling the NEW Camalots (which you'll notice are no longer referred to as the C4, another climbing Co. already owns the name) and really looking at the weight saving design and new features. Four notable things:

1: The stem is one continuous loop of cable with both ends terminating up at the axel assembly eliminating a swage being placed mid stem creating a weak point.
2: The cutouts in the lobes are machined larger and with beveled edges contributing significantly to the weight loss.
3. The axels appear to be smaller diameter compared to the old style.
4. The axels have been moved slightly and the larger cams now cover a slightly larger range. This eliminates the half sizes so where in the past you would have a 3/3.5/4/4.5/5 you now have a 3/4/5/6.

A cam is still a cam, but they are nice.

Oh, and on a side note, I found out why BD uses the nylon sling instead of the dyneea/spectra that you see on other cams. Remember that dyneema/spectra is super great with the exception of its relatively low melting point? Well, when they were load testing the slings on the cams they found that the dyneema/spectra would melt through and break at 2kn-3kn less than what the cam itself was rated to. Hence, the use of nylon as the sling choice. AND, since you were so good to read all the way through this here's your cookie... BD TCU's are coming.

Tuesday, November 09, 2004

What's the scoop for this weekend?

Monday, November 08, 2004

Well it's a good thing I didn't go to Vegas
my drive belt snapped on the way home from josh
but I was lucky to be going downhill with light traffic 1/8 of a mile from an onramp near a mobile station with a towtruck
I could've been uphill in the middle of nowhere with heavy vegas traffic in the rain
spent sunday replacing the drive tensioner pulley (bearings froze up) and installing a new drive belt

Wednesday, November 03, 2004

I've got a campsite in Indian Stove Thanksgiving Weekend for friday Nov 26th thru Sunday Nov 28th.
Hopefully I'll be climbing with Duper anyone else in?