Wednesday, November 10, 2004

Sorry, but I have to techno-geek it for a moment. Tonight we had a Black Diamond clinic, Linh was giving it coincidentally. So anyway I finally got around to fondling the NEW Camalots (which you'll notice are no longer referred to as the C4, another climbing Co. already owns the name) and really looking at the weight saving design and new features. Four notable things:

1: The stem is one continuous loop of cable with both ends terminating up at the axel assembly eliminating a swage being placed mid stem creating a weak point.
2: The cutouts in the lobes are machined larger and with beveled edges contributing significantly to the weight loss.
3. The axels appear to be smaller diameter compared to the old style.
4. The axels have been moved slightly and the larger cams now cover a slightly larger range. This eliminates the half sizes so where in the past you would have a 3/3.5/4/4.5/5 you now have a 3/4/5/6.

A cam is still a cam, but they are nice.

Oh, and on a side note, I found out why BD uses the nylon sling instead of the dyneea/spectra that you see on other cams. Remember that dyneema/spectra is super great with the exception of its relatively low melting point? Well, when they were load testing the slings on the cams they found that the dyneema/spectra would melt through and break at 2kn-3kn less than what the cam itself was rated to. Hence, the use of nylon as the sling choice. AND, since you were so good to read all the way through this here's your cookie... BD TCU's are coming.


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