Wednesday, April 27, 2005

Went to Indian Creek this past weekend. Had a blast. The routes were long (100 ft +)and the grades were true to Jtree standards. The only difference is IT'S PURE CRACK. Thin cracks, thick crack, fingers to fists. There were no feet 'cept for the crack. I plan to go back again and again. Just got to work on some endurace. Pics to come.

Sunday, April 24, 2005

This weekend in Redrocks Holden and I did a route that was long and sustained. Bob and Danny guided us on the approach (2 hrs) and descent/downclimb (2 hrs). Allowing us to race another party to the route and beat them there by 1/2 hour. Holden led all the hard pitches and I led the easy ones. Most of the pitches were about 80-90 feet long, I led 2 pitches back to back at 120' and 140'.
The route was 9 pitches long with a short 5.6 (felt like 5.4) top out of 30 feet. We climbed the entire thing in 7 hrs averaging 45 minutes per pitch. 13 hours of climbing, hiking, boulder hopping and downclimbing we were back at the cars at 7:30 pm. Holden took one fall on the crux pitch, I took one 2nding the crux and a couple others later none on lead only on 2nd.
Stellar weekend and stellar route, stellar partner and stellar friends to do it with (Bob and Danny repeated it).
Lynn Hill has called this her favorite route and it's not the Nose.
It took every thing I had to even 2nd this route......I've got a long ways to go before I'm anywhere near Holden, Danny and Bob.

We were also rained on for about ten minutes which turned to hail for about 5 minutes or so.

Monday, April 18, 2005

Damn right

Bob and Kenny and Snakes...OH MY!
Sunday after lollygagging around most of the morning while everyone broke camp and made breakfast we headed out to Hitman rock to do a little climbing. The wall was just moving into the shade so we hung out in a small cave and told stories for a bit. Kenny decided to lead Biscuit Eater 10a to warm up on. He got to the alcove/ledge mid route where the route becomes 5.4 when all of a sudden he yells "oh shit" jumps to the right side of the alcove (about 2 feet) and a Rattler shoots out of a crack striking at Kenny but missing him. Since the Rattler missed him it flys out of the crack and off of the alcove and falls. Bob down below can hear Kenny shouting and is all prepared to catch a lead fall and looks up in time to think "that's not a sling", he ducks his head and the snake lands on his neck and shoulders. Bob flips the snake off himself and leaps to the side about 10 feet while feeding out an armful of slack so he doesn't pull off Kenny. That last part was instinct because Bob doesn't remember doing it but we all saw him do so.
I ran up to Bob and he asks me "did it get me"? Nope no bite. Kenny is still dancing around and screaming snake snake snake.
We ask him if it got him...nope not a scratch.
The snake survived the fall but is just lying there kind of stunned.
Eventually it coils up at the base of the route, we lower Kenny and the girls pull him to the side in mid air so he doesn't land on the snake.
At one point Bob looks at me with a completely white face and says "it touched me" with shock in his voice.
Our buddy the snake sidles under a large flat rock at the base of the route and stays there rattlling his tail at us.
Finally I end up traversing into the start, cleaning the gear, dropping the rope etc. because I know the walkoff and everyone is now scared that snakes are everywhere, including me.
During the walkoff and downclimb I pick up loose stones and throw them down ahead of me and listen for the telltale buzzing of a rattler.
We hightailed it out of there and went to a more popular area where no snakes would be around.

Sunday, April 17, 2005

Thursday, April 07, 2005

I think we should go see this. Art liked it and i saw some clips. Looks really goodJim Donini- "Parralelojams"
excerpt from Fuegos link.
When clipping runners it is easy to tangle the ropes up, for example by clipping out of order, and thus increase drag rather than avoid it.

I watched a girl in redrocks make this error. She had the idea in her head that you HAVE TO alternate clips. By alternating clips she'd increased drag and tangled the ropes to the point that she couldn't move up no matter how much slack her belayer gave her. Daryl at Nomad's explained it to me once this way, "imagine each half as a single and keep that rope as straight as possible". So sometimes you might clip the same rope twice in a row if you had to in order to keep a straight run and not introduce drag into the system.

Wednesday, April 06, 2005