Thursday, May 08, 2008

Mountain Project: Evolv Big Wall Boot review > Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Well everyone is asking about these things and I finally used them. I had them for my Solo of Skull Queen on WC in Yosemite. I didn't finish the route but I got enough of the way up to get a feel for them.

Hiking- Great, really comfy, tread is good too. It's a high top so you have a good ankle support. The tongue of the shoe is vented so your feet don't overheat. Everything you want in a hiking shoe.

Free Climbing- As far as a big wall boot goes they are great. I think they are better then the five ten approach shoes and they don't fall apart. There is about a two inch edge around the front and sides to the arch which is good for edging and there is enough rubber surface for good smears. As far as crack climbing goes they are a bit big in the toe so finger size cracks are out. Hand crack they're a bit tight, as a matter of fact my feet got stuck a couple of times so don't step too high in them. When you get into the bigger stuff they are great! SO for stepping out of the aiders to bust off a free move or two they rock.

Aiding- Oh My, these things are GREAT! I didn't even feel my aiders while I was standing in them. The Shoes are really stiff and have a good arch to keep your feet in the aiders. I've destroyed a few pair of other shoes while jugging and hauling, but these seem to be really sturdy. I didn't have any wear in the usual spots.

I don't have many bad things to say about the shoes but there are two small things. One is the yellow die painted my toes Yellow. The other problem is that there is a lot of rubber in the rand so they get a bit warm on sunny days.

All in all I think they just might be what we have been looking for in a big wall shoe. Great for the approach, really comfy to stand in all day and great for the free moves you have to bust out from time to time.

Have a great time out there...ZAc

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